Letter to the Observer Food Monthly (and any other reviewers)

Dear Sir

I have of late seen numerous accolades heaped upon the Drunken Duck Inn in Ambleside, most recently in your Food Awards 2007 and I'm a little confused as to what all the fuss is about. I had a most unsatisfactory dining experience there with my partner and have been bemused ever since as to the plaudits it has earned.

Upon arrival we were crammed into a small table by the bar and served distinctly average food in a brusque and surly manner. The delight of our evening was capped off by later diners literally hanging over us waiting for our table which did nothing to aid the digestion of what were were unfortunate enough to order.

I know some places can have an off-day but to receive the constant praise it does, surely the Drunken Duck ought to be able to achieve a consistently high standard of service. The only other explanation is that the establishment is 'tipped off' when a reviewer makes an appearance and bestowed with suitably special treatment.

In all fairness the Observer award was voted for by the people and was in fact for one of the most stunning locations, not the best food but unlike buying houses its not all about location, location, location. First and foremost it needs to be about taste, service and pleasure. So a word to the wise for other potential diners - the journey to the restaurant might be the highlight of your evening.

Villagio, Canal St, Manchester - 31 March 2007

It was a bright sunny day and there was a definite sense that spring was in the air at the various bars and restaurants along Canal Street.

This area is still one of the few locations in the city where you can enjoy a drink and a bite to eat al fresco without being sat by a busy roadside and its popularity is always apparent as soon as the sun as much as glimpses from behind a cloud.

Much as I like al fresco dining there was still a slight nip in the air so I opted to try Villagio for a lunchtime snack, one of Canal Street's newer additions to the culinary scene.

Villagio offers a combination of traditional and modern Italian cuisine and has a good selection of pasta, pizza and main courses on the menu. The decor of the restaurant is a good reflection of the food - modern and simple with style. The restaurant itself looks deceptively small from the outside and its only once you get inside that you see the more intimate seating area at the back of the building.

The staff were well trained and the food was served at an ideal pace for a lunchtimne outing, we certainly never felt hurried.

I chose a linguine dish served with prawns, garlic and chilli and it was well seasoned with a good depth of flavour using simple fresh ingredients. My partner went for the risotto which is always a good test of a kitchen. The risotto itself had a great consistency and you could taste the rich flavours of the porcini and truffle oil.

I chose the house white wine to accompany our meal and it was crisp, cold, good value for money and complemented the food well.

Overall the meal was an enjoyable experience and a refreshing change from some of the 'chain Italian' restaurants which pay little more attention to the quality of the food than would a burger joint.

Canal Street is a competitive environment with discerning diners and its a testament to Villagio's standards that it's survived those hard times at the start of a restaurant's life. All they need is some outside seating for summer and you could be transported to the canalsides of Venice for the afternoon as you sip a chilled glass of pinot grigio and watch the world go by.

Verdict: 4/5

Menu Details

Garlic Bread
Linuguine al aglio e gamberoni
Risotto porcini
Carafe of house white

Wirral Tandoori 30 March 2007

Wirral Tandoori is one of the stalwarts of the local Indian restaurant scene and its continued popularity was plain to see on our recent visit there.

The decor is plain and simple and suppose what one might imagine when a curry house finds it home in a mock Tudor building - its definitely some sort of fusion.

In an attempt to avoid the usual pitfall of over-ordering and after spying on fellow diners' choices we all decided to try the non-vegetarian thali. This set meal gives you a starter of mixed kebab followed by a main course of lamb bhuna, chicken tikka, keem chat, pilau rice and nan bread all served on the traditional metal thali plate which gives this dish its name.

This is a great way of sampling a number of different dishes without being overfaced and the food itself was well cooked with some distinctive flavours.

The restaurant had a buzzy atmosphere with a wide range of diners and the staff were friendly and attentive.

'Going for an Indian' has become a British institution but the Wirral Tandoori shows that it can be about good food and its not compulsory to have drunk 15 pints of lager beforehand. There's a wide ranging menu containing some more unusual choices alongside the familar favourites. It's easy to always order the old faithful but I'd recommend you stray off the beaten track and try at least one different dish. Go on you know you want to!

Verdict 3.5/5

Menu Details

Non-Vegetarian Thali £12.95 per person